I'm lucky today ... got to tap into someone's wireless line. That's why I get to blog a little. Here're some notes I've taken over the last couple of days. 16 November 2007, 23:40
Lonely Planet says that the Dhaka Sheraton Hotel creates a solitary sanctuary for its guests even when it lies in the heart of the city. Indeed, the worst storm in sixteen years hit and I slept through it all.
Cyclone Sidr, a 10 (the highest), swept through Bangladesh last night. As Dhaka lies on the fringe of the storm's path, it is spared any serious damage of property or lives. However, the aftermath of the cyclone is disastrous.
Aside from dire damage of property and livelihoods along the coast (though this time, it has been mitigated because the government is much more well-prepared than in 1991 when 150,000 were killed in a similar cyclone incident), Bangladesh now has a nation-wide power crisis as the national grid has been damaged by the storm. According to our local colleague, it is the worst in history, one which Bangladesh has never experienced before.
Power is out and so is water supply. Soon, diesel might be too as demand surges because everyone needs it to fuel their generators. Hotels, like the Sheraton for one, need it to keep the television running or the water running for its fortunate guests, like me.
This is one of those times when I feel blessed for being born in the right place and humbled by the strength of the less fortunate to carry on living in harsh environments with much optimism and without grumbles. Not that there's anything they can do about it. Nor I. But at least, I should live in moderation for whatever excess I have could perhaps be contributed to people like them.
I am still regretting not tipping the cash-strapped nice driver with big dreams for his 3 children who picked us up from the airport two nights ago. He had to wait almost an hour, I think, as I got stopped at the customs. They wanted to check my bag but in the end, it turned out to be a major waste of time. I guess they just lost a chance to make some extra under-table money as they couldn't find anything incriminating among my clothes. It's really sad to see honest folks living from hand to mouth and their opposites lavishing in luxury. As I wondered how much the Lexus SUV in front of our vehicle cost and who would afford it, the Indian researcher with us commented that 90% of Bangladesh's wealth is concentrated in only 10% of the population. It's not rocket science to guess who these people are.
I wonder if the next few days of fieldwork can proceed without a hitch as respondents dwell on power and water troubles. As I write, it looks incredibly calm outside. Almost too still. Hopefully, it's not a lull before the next storm.
We successfully completed two observations today. The second one proceeded in candlelight. Luckily, the storm had left behind lower temperatures so we didn't feel too warm sitting there in the small hall with candles emitting heat everywhere. The warmth I felt, though, came from the hospitality of the family. While we interviewed the husband, his wife silently prepared snacks for us. Delicious ones!
If anyone ever wonders why I like South Asia so much, it is the warm hospitality that I've enjoyed in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. No one has any idea how much heart these places contain in spite of their less than desirable physical conditions, until they come and experience it for themselves.
17 November 2007, 13:10
The weather looks great today. There's sunshine and even some blue sky. What a great change from the torrential rains that whipped the city 2 days before. If not for the muddy paths and puddles of water below road curbs, there is virtually no remnant of the storm in Dhaka.
I went out for a walk in the morning. It's already pretty late, I suppose, even for a Saturday morning (housekeeping had come knocking to clean my room and the road has been busy since several hours before). Almost immeediately as I stepped onto the road, a half-naked young boy with his naked baby brother on piggyback came begging for money. Alas, in my haste, I had forgotten my room key, much less any money!
My heart really went out to the boys. I would have given them something, only I didn't have any. I tried to shake them off so they could go find their fortune somewhere and don't waste any time with me the penniless. But boy, was he persistent! Even after a gentleman gave him 50 taka to get him off my trail, he didn't let me out of sight. Then I realised that my cameras had attracted him. So I took a picture for them. And he tried his luck again begging, "10 taka m'am!" before finally saying goodbye.
I walked down a street opposite the hotel, not quite knowing where it'd lead me but I was sure to find my way back if I didn't make any drastic turns. It's a typical Dhaka street; its residents alive with activites - barbering, preparing and selling local breads, topping up their mobile credits. One thing that sets such community in South Asia apart from the East is that people come begging for pictures. I've never felt hesitant clicking away on the camera. Most are more than happy to pose for one and a smile of thanks usually seals the deal.
It's quite a slummy area. The houses/shops are tiny and some look more like a cart than a house. I didn't ask, but I suspect that the peddlars also live there in the small carton-like shop/house.
Did I feel unsafe? I guess a little, especially after several of our respondents reported phone hijacking in crowded markets. But at the same time, I was a little ashamed to be suspicious because they may be poor, but they are not crooks. At least not all of them and it is really my own responsibility to be vigilant and alert.
It's nice to find that Malaysia is holding an education fair at the Sheraton today. On the way back to the hotel, a student headed that way asked if I was Malaysian. I was honestly shocked and at the same time, thrilled! I've been asked if I were Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Taiwanese, Hongkie everywhere I go, but this is the first time I'm identified as a Malaysian. He wanted to know where in Sheraton the fair was but alas, I could not help him there. In fact, I had received that piece of information from him. He eventually found out from the hotel staff.
Gee ... I feel a little bad for not being as friendly as I could have because I thought he's one of those people who are trying to make small talk. But he's just someone who is in search of a better future through higher education in Malaysia. I'm proud of that, of what the Malaysian education system can do for them. And I'm also sure this country has some very bright people (at least one of the respondents we've interviewed is an intelligent one). Hopefully, they can be the ones to lift the country out of the dumps. If they don't get corrupt first. Sigh.
