Karachi is a city of doors. Having been here only a mere 5 days, I have experienced tremendous amount of generosity from the people of Karachi. From the very rich to the very poor, doors are always open to us. People welcome us with the most sincere albeit shy smiles. Drinks and food were always served, as though by magic because some of our appointments were very last minute. Yet, doors of opportunities seem to be closed to the poor. The different classes don't mix, so the rich keep opening the right doors of fortune, while the poor get stuck in the rut forever. A sad fact of life that is also true for many other developing nations.
Two instances brought me close to tears. Both are of the so-called C or D class of Karachi. This means very poor folks. Yet when we visited, they were generous in their limited means to make us feel welcome and well taken care of. The man in this picture (top left) served us some local snacks and tea from this tiny teashop (which is funnily called a hotel here), at which our local guide panicked and told us to NEVER accept food from anyone from that area. Even Karachiites will not eat there. She must mean Karachiites like her who hail from good families that live in spacious double-storey bungalows.
All the time we were there in the C-class area, we were constantly chided for venturing two houses too far because our safety became of paramount concern. We felt perfectly at home! Sure, there were curious stares, some kids wanted to have their photos taken, there were friendly greetings which we couldn't, of course, understand. I observed that it was really our guide who was uncomfortable with all that attention, which I cannot blame her for, for many of the Pakistani women we've encountered are careful about being looked at or photographed.
The other impressionable instance was this family that lived in a small house, all 7 of them. This is a family of daughters (4 or 5) and only one son. This is consistent with Pakistan's population census - there are more women here than men, although we only see men on the streets, seriously! This was a last minute appointment. When we arrived, I was impressed at how neat the place was in spite of its lack of space. I was deeply touched when their little boy turned up with bottles of chilled Pepsi, which his mom promptly served us. This poor family got us Pepsi, cold ones, which must be such a luxury in this hot climate!
Today, there's a strike going on in conjunction with the arrival of the Chief Justice in Karachi. They are protesting power troubles. Damn right, that's a problem that really needs fixed. Everyday we're here, there are blackouts. According to the locals, power outtages in the city area can last up to hours, but it takes days before the elecricity comes back on in the rural areas. In this 38-degree hot weather, that must be seriously frustrating. Coming from a childhood where power outtages were quite common (though definitely not as frequent as here in Karachi), I can really appreciate the inconvenience.
Well, so thanks to the strike, I am holed in this hotel room, trying to get some work done but I thought I'd do an update first. We move on to Cairo tomorrow. Sigh, what a pity we see a day less of Karachi, and alas, no opportunity for shopping. Maybe I'll return someday, Isya'Allah (a Muslim expression meaning by God's grace)
