TRAVEL: California 15 Feb - 09 Mar 2005

Having just returned from one of my most rigorous adventures yet, I've been busy with other commitments of life, which to say the least, are not too far less rigorous than the miles of uphill hiking I did in the US. So this is a completely incomplete account of my holiday, the pages of which are in transfer from my hard journal.

Do check back!

15 Feb 2005, Tuesday – Narita Airport, Japan

2.25 pm. Narita Japan again. Gosh, more than 4 hours to kill before the connecting flight at 7.10 pm. This stretch of 30- and 40-something gates is boring. Little to browse, even less to stimulate fervent purchase interest. Well, great for the pocket though. But I’d better remember to pick up the cute doll-snack on the way back. One has gotta love Japan’s merchandise – so full of character that I doubt the US could closely match. We’ll see.

5 pm. Still 2 hours to go!! Why is time moving at snail pace?! Sigh... I hope the flight to San Francisco would be less eventful. Not that the earlier flight was bad. The flight was not full so the 2 of us were comfortable in a 3-seater. It had been okay save for a few bouts of mild turbulence that spilled my elderly neighbor’s tea on my pants and stained my socks.

But that didn’t really matter. What piqued me was the “random security check” at Changi Airport. Was it really random, or targeted? If the latter, what was the reason? My passport or the e-ticket? I’d check with Hui Ling if she had similar experience. Let’s hope the entry to the US would be less unnerving, although the strict security enforcement was really quite… comforting.

15 Feb 2005, Tuesday – San Francisco

It was surreal. As I walked on the aerobridge, through the airport hallways, across the custom gates, out of the arrival hall, into the BART station, on the train, into the rain and the cold of Union Square, up Powell Street, down Sutter, up Taylor Street and finally arriving at the USA Hostels, I looked around me thinking – this is surreal. Surreal. Surreal.

I don’t think I’d ever felt like that before on my many other trips.

The plane landed at about noon. It had been a reasonably good flight, mainly because I slept through most of it as I was the only person occupying the row of 3-seats. In fact, the flight was so empty that many of us had the chance to recline and sleep like first class passengers. Yet when we landed, I was in a sort of daze. Jetlag? Hmm…

The folks at the USA Hostels were great but they’re screwed by some irresponsible hosteller, which also meant I was completely screwed too. I would have loved to settle quickly into the room, have a quick shower and possibly a short nap since it was raining and I wasn’t too keen on the idea of sightseeing in wet weather. Where’s the romance unless you’re on the arms of some hunk but that’s beside the point.

The point is, the room that I was assigned to did not have a bed for me! The girl at the reception could not help me right away because she had to check with someone else but the reservation records showed that there’s supposed to be an empty bed in that room. So after dumping my bags, I went to hang out at Borders. Thank God for Borders.

I’d also spotted the Disney Store on the way to USA Hostels… this is an excellent location really. Union Square, the hub of downtown San Francisco. And a bed at the bargain price of $9 per day (it’s on half price because it’s Valentine’s week), wow!

The multi-floor Borders indeed was stocked with books and music of every variety to amuse myself on cold lonely nights… or afternoons. One of the gems that I immediately took myself to was the screenplay of the highly-acclaimed ‘Sideways’. I’d heard so much knew so little about the movie that my curiosity just about built to the max. I pounced on the book, and made it my own for the 5 consecutive nights I spent in San Francisco, save for one when I was too tired to keep my eyes peeled.

When I went back to the hostel to check on the status of my room, I had the bad news that they had to move me to the Sutter Street building. Jim, the manager in charge, apologized profusely and helped me carry my bags in the transfer. Hmm… I was hoping they’d offer a discount to redeem themselves for the screw-up but oh well…

The situation seemed to redeem itself, though. The original room was a hell of a mess that when I first entered it, I was frankly quite appalled and dismayed that I’d have to live there for 5 days. The new room, although with 5 beds (compared to 4 on Taylor) was completely vacant when I checked in. I was later joined by an Australian girl who was working at Berkeley for nothing but for the experience (given the chance, I’d like to try it too!). The two of us had the room to ourselves for 3 nights before 3 other girls checked in on Friday.

After a shower and a call home to report my safe arrival, I decided to hit Borders again. The rain had not abated. So I read Sideways till my eyes could no longer be kept awake and my mind could focus no more but on the growl in my tummy, I left to pick up a pizza and retire for the night. At 9 pm. Ridiculous.

16 Feb 2005, Wednesday – San Francisco

It’s a beautiful day! Despite turning in early the night before, I woke after 9 (although I was jerked from my slumber at about 5.30 am by my roommate’s alarm clock – she needed an early start at work). I quickly washed up and went down to the kitchen for the free pancake breakfast. But found none. Then I remembered a complaint on a website that the free breakfast was a hoax. Or maybe I was late and missed it. It didn’t really matter anyway.

Since the weather’s great after so much rain the day before, I was determined to pack tonnes of sightseeing into this one. First stop though, would be breakfast. But where at? And which part of town should I be spending the day at afterward? Since it’s Chinese New Year, and only 6 days into it, perhaps the most logical choice would be to bask in the festive atmosphere right there among the largest Chinese community outside of Asia. Besides, I needed to use the Internet and the Chinatown public library seemed to be the closest.

24 Feb 2005, Thursday – Hollywood

The bus pulled into the Los Angeles station at approximately 0500. The bus to Hollywood would not depart until after 0600 so I had to find something to amuse myself with for more than an hour. There wasn’t very much, only restless or tired travelers streaming about the busy station. Busy at this hour, I guess they operate 24 hours a day.

Just when I thought the hour would drift by uneventfully, a security high drama, or close to one, unfolded. Two security officers approached a drab, emaciated man, pummeling him with questions. He seemed like he was high on something, and the officers eventually led him away from the station. Peacefully.

The ride to Hollywood came and in less than a half hour, I was strolling the Walk of Fame, some of the stars I recognized, many I didn’t and most I couldn’t care less. My sense of direction was warped by the insistent thought of cozying up in the dorm bed as quickly as I could. After crossing some streets and Schrader Blvd never came in sight, I re-consulted the map and uh huh, I was strolling down the opposite direction.

The guy who checked me in was sort of in a daze, maybe lack of sleep, or if that was his usual demeanor, the unusually laidback attitude almost set my nerves ablaze. It was even less comforting that a bed would not be available until after 10 am when the current occupant checked out. Great, and I spent the hours in between watching Good Morning America in the kitchen.

Which wasn’t half as bad, really. Fellow hostellers started streaming in for their free pancake breakfast, which they had to make themselves. Some made beautiful golden ones, some could pass off for charcoal but the animated conversation amongst these young and (some of them) very good-looking people were the most entertaining of all.

Welcome to Hollywood.

When the dorm bed became available, the sheets did not. That didn’t really bother me although housekeeping did. Vacuum cleaners buzzing down the hall, loud music playing and people in… more animated conversation. By the time the team stepped into my room, drowsiness had already bade me goodbye. For the record, the housekeeping team was pretty impressive at keeping the room and amenities in tip top condition. Kudos to them.

A stroll down Hollywood Boulevard on a sunny afternoon was swell after a whole week of overcast sky and freezing cold raindrops pelting my face in San Francisco (and Las Vegas).

First stop, the Visitor’s Centre. The walking map was simple enough and I shouldn’t have bothered, really. There were only 2 main streets worthy of closer scrutiny here – Hollywood Boulevard which I was on, and Sunset Boulevard, of the Divine-Hugh Grant fame.

Scouring for props may be a logistic headache for us producers in Singapore, but here in Hollywood, they are everywhere … some even on characters plying the streets, tourists or aspiring actors hoping to catch the eye of a discerning casting agent? The street was flanked by shops selling eccentric clothing, collectible movie memorabilia and like a true tourist town, souvenirs in all price ranges with only one thing in common – the word “Hollywood” creatively eternalized on the most prominent surface.

10 blocks didn’t seem like such a long walk from Vine Street to the Kodak Theatre and Gaumann’s Chinese Theatre, both the star attractions of Hollywood, as asserted by the Visitors Information Center dude who tried to get me on a bus tour of Tinseltown. Must be a slow day.

Kodak Theatre was bustling with activities and that little stretch of Hollywood Boulevard was closed to traffic. Only then did I realize that the Academy Awards was happening that very weekend. Alas, I wasn’t going to be around – I’d be frolicking with Mickey Mouse in Disneyland on Saturday, and then rocking on the long ride back to San Jose on Sunday as the red carpet which they were rolling out just about now played host to the most glamorous of Hollywood’s stars on Oscar night.

A visit to the Hollywood Museum felt like a stumble through the wardrobe on the sets of movies from the early days of film-making to recent blockbusters. Although not every movie was represented in the museum, all the exhibits were well-preserved.

My favorite was the Marilyn Monroe corner. It was almost like a shrine in tribute of, in my opinion, the most misunderstood and media-wrecked star of her time. Exhibits included her dresses from movies and public appearances, and photographs with quotes from the photographers. But the highlight, at least to me, were the video autobiography and her autopsy reports, all congruent to allegations that Marilyn Monroe did not commit suicide. It was murder, which appeared to be a high-level act.

I spent at least 2 hours lingering in the museum (never thought I was such a museum-lover!) When I was finally outside, it was past 4 pm. The Oscar production and security teams were still very hard at work setting up for the big night. Kodak Theatre was off limits so I had only the Chinese Theatre to hang out at. There was, of course, the shopping mall that spanned these 2 landmarks, if I ever ran out of places to go to.

I deliberately skipped the guided tour of the Chinese Theatre because I did not deem the fee value for money (although I’m rather curious why’s it called a Chinese Theater besides the architecture and why Chinese architecture at the hub of western film industry). Besides, I enjoyed checking out the who’s who of Hollywood who left prints and messages on the slabs of stones that now adorned the sidewalk leading up to the heavy doors of the theatre.

With all the temptations of this glamour town, I chose McDonald’s for dinner. Perhaps, all the star-gazing today was getting to me and McDonald’s was the much-needed reality check that would keep me sane for more Day 2 adventures. Ciao.

25 Feb 2005, Friday - Hollywood

Whatever kept me in bed for 10 straight hours, I did not know. Could be sleep in arrears from the overnight bus ride into Hollywood from Las Vegas the previous night, or was the upper bunk cozier than the lower one I had in San Francisco? Whatever it was, I had all the rest I required for a 3-mile hike up to the Hollywood Hills.

The weather was not as good as the previous day. The Hollywood sign was shrouded in thin mist as I navigated through an immaculate neighborhood whose sidewalks were lined with palm trees that had become synonymous with California as far as TV shows went. Hopefully, the mist would soon lift and the sign would be bathed in golden sunshine for my million-dollar picture of the symbol of a billion-dollar industry.

Although it was a relatively easy hike, the long, quiet and somewhat meandering Beachwood and Ledgewood Drives made the journey seem longer than it actually was. When I finally got close enough to the sign, alas, there was still a thin veil of mist over it. Not the most picturesque of shots but the mysterious quality was somewhat appealing. Maybe I was an optimist, or was I just trying to justify the effort put into getting up close to this … thing.

Spending no less than a good half hour walking back and forth in anticipation of the lifting of the veil, er, mist, my patience eventually paid off. Although the lighting condition was far from perfect, at least the sign was sporting subtle glints of gold. Well, not exactly a million-dollar shot like I’d hoped for; I bet this one’s worth a couple of Starbucks coffees…

The trip to the Hollywood Hills proved to be the last straw for my Reebok sneakers, whose sole had already shown signs of falling apart. Coincidentally, a store near the USA Hostels was having a sale and I picked up a cool white and tan leather-suede Guess shoes for bargain price. And another pair of sporty blue suede Guess for… just in case.

I did not have very much to do that afternoon except shop for souvenirs for family and friends back home. Oh yeah, and that must-go “Build-A-Bear” store, which I found the day before but was closed for the day, that was similar to the Basic Brown Bear Factory in San Francisco. But alas, for whatever reason it was closed when I went a-knocking (maybe because it’s Friday? Or maybe because it’s Oscar weekend)

So I had plenty time to browse and pick the best gifts for my family and friends, and the cash registers sure had fun “ka-chinging” my purchases while my burnt little pockets must be screaming in excruciating pain, on which I turned a deaf ear. Hollywood was a shopper’s paradise. Very attractive merchandise, very beautiful clothes and shoes, unparalleled haute couture, lovely shoes, stunning tops and skirts, cute shoes… oh did I mention the sexy shoes that the 4 Sex and the City girls would kill for? Ooh…

Shopping is indeed a time killer. Before I knew it, the day was getting dark. On the way back to the hostel, the sound of music drew me into a place called The Musician’s Institute. A band was performing with a black lady vocalist that could give all the American Idol contestants a run for their money. So mesmerizing was the performance (and the drummer J) that I decided to sit down and immerse myself in the melodies of this group of aspiring musicians, artistes. I was sure that many of my revered musicians, BT for one, had had a similar gig at some point in their lives. It was cool that these creative persons had this avenue to showcase their talents and have fun. It is something that the more affluent countries in Asia should emulate in promoting of the arts; I’m happy to note that the occasional performances at the Esplanade and the MITA Building came close.

Very shortly after I dumped my stuff in the room, I set off for Amoeba. Like the one on Haight Street, this is a really cool store which a wide selection of everything. Still, most of them are more than I could afford so after a short while there, I was off to Jack-in-the-Box for dinner. I wish we had more burger choices, such as this and the In-and-Out Burger, back home.

I had spotted Borders on the way back from the Hollywood Hills and that was where I spent the rest of the evening. Picked up some Valentine’s merchandise on 70% discount – a couple card game for Hui Ching and Raymond, and a Love Is… notebook for Hui Teng who needed a diary. And if she didn’t want it, I would gladly keep it for myself. After all, I had religiously cut out the cartoons complete with quotes on what Love Is, published everyday in the New Straits Times about a decade ago, and still have them in my safekeeping.

At Borders also, I had the good fortune to catch a gig by a husband and wife team. It was a pity I did not stay throughout the performance which I thoroughly enjoyed because I had to wake up early the next day to catch the train to Anaheim, and I didn’t have my handphone which doubled as my alarm clock with me. Of course, I had the alarm function of the iPod but I wasn’t confident that a single beep could jolt me from a deep slumber. So to play it safe, I’d better have enough sleep and let my biological clock set the alarm.

26 Feb 2005, Saturday – Disneyland, Anaheim

I think I hardly slept that night. Or if I did, I woke very early this morning, way before the designated 0545 set for the alarm. Still, I lazed in bed until 0545. A huge mistake, because by the time I checked out and started walking to the Hollywood/Vine Metro subway station, it was already past 0615. And alas, I missed the train and only caught the next one about 20 minutes later.

One really interesting thing noteworthy of the US public transport system is that everyone could travel virtually free. I had dutifully bought my ticket at the machine before realizing that there wasn’t any barrier ala the MRT auto-gate to validate the ticket, much less an inspector onboard. I had also ridden free before in San Francisco on their street and cable cars – the operators of the former had seemed more than happy to take us on a free spin.

Anyway, I arrived at the Union Station 10 minutes after the collection time for my reserved Amtrak ticket to Anaheim. I was glad my reservation still held, and at the same time, I could collect my 3 other reserved tickets to Lake Tahoe and Yosemite the following week.

Upon boarding the train, I realized I shouldn’t have bothered reserving. The train was quite empty. I had felt like an idiot the day before while making my reservation at the public phone in a crowded kitchen of the USA Hostel, trying to keep my voice down as I spoke and sometimes, repeated my answers several times, to a voice-recognition reservation system. To the outsider, I had certainly seemed crazy talking to myself! Haha…

The journey to Anaheim was very comfortable and I resolved to ride Amtrak in future if the price was comparable to Greyhound’s. I had certainly made the right decision refunding the Greyhound ticket.

A short cab ride after arrival at the Anaheim station, and I arrived at the Anabella Hotel at about 8.30 am. En route, the cab driver told me that the beautiful weather would be short-lived - the rain, which had stopped just a couple of days before, was expected to resume the following week. It seemed we were extremely lucky to be there at the right time. What fun would Disneyland be in wet weather?

And hell yes, we were extremely lucky indeed! Hui Ling and her colleague had arrived earlier and while they were waiting for me at the lobby, a couple gave them a 3-day pass, of which they had only used once the day before. Gee, that’s a saving of US$106!!

Another pleasant surprise awaited us. I wasn’t expecting much of the room for the price that we paid for, and its exterior didn’t seem all too impressive either. But once we stepped in, I thought that was really great value for money. Immediately, I had the urge to snuggle up in the many soft pillows and snooze.

But the 2 delicious complimentary chocolate strawberries brought me back to earth and soon, we were all set for DISNEYLAND – the happiest place on earth!

The place was huge. Even the search for the main entrance and ticketing booths required some sort of skillful navigation. And once we were in, we were at a lost where to go first. To first launch into “Tomorrowland”, which was near the entrance, didn’t seem like the most logical choice before a picture with some of Disney’s historical figures such as Mickey, Minnie, Pluto, etc. But alas, just as we wielded our cameras, the stars began to retreat to their “trailers”, promising to be back soon.

So into tomorrow we went, without the past. And we quickly discovered that it was the colorful past that was the most lustrous.

Like the Dumbo Ride. Or the Snow White & the Seven Dwarves stage musical performance, which was truly outstanding (besides the fact that the prince was gorgeous). Or the Mickey & Friends street parade and the Disney Princesses Royal Party that to say the least, thrust forth the little kid in everyone of us to sing, dance and wave to all our favorite Disney characters from days past and present.

The warm day became increasingly chillier as evening approached. We had all left our jackets back at the hotel so that was the perfect excuse to hit the souvenir stores for one of the pricey but pretty sweaters, and be distracted by a myriad of merchandise that effortlessly but surely drew cash from the pockets of the faint-hearted.

We hurried over to the Rivers of America in Frontierland where the night’s grand finale, Fantasmic, was to be staged. The show had not started but the venue was so swarmed with people that it was impossible for us to get a good view so we decided to return for the second show an hour and half later at 10.30 pm. So we utilized our FastPass for priority entry to the Big Thunder roller coaster ride, the queue to which was unbelievably long. After the ride, I completely understood why it was worth the wait. It’s got to be the best thrill ride Disneyland had to offer.

Right after Big Thunder, we left for Frontierland again to reserve the best seats for Fantasmic. The first show had just ended so we easily secured the front row just above the river. But there’s almost an hour to go before the show started and quite frankly, the wait in the cramped seated position in the cold was not much fun. We should have opted to stand. This was confirmed when the host warned that those in front would be wet because of the spectacular water magic that Mickey conjured up in battle with his enemies. Nevertheless, the half hour show was a magnificent finale to a fun day at the happiest place on earth.